Garbage disposals are simple machines but the failure modes are surprisingly varied. We free jams the same morning. We replace dead motors when the unit is worth saving. We swap mounting flanges when the leak is at the sink rather than the unit. And we install replacements when the math says replace.
Jammed flywheel. The motor still has power but the cutter assembly cannot turn. We free the jam with the manufacturer hex key, fish out any chicken bones, fruit pits or fork tines, and reset. Sometimes we need to also reset the thermal cutoff on the bottom of the unit.
Order of checks: reset button on the bottom of the unit (most common fix), then the wall switch, then the wiring at the unit, then the motor itself. We see the reset-button cause about half the time.
The mount flange between the disposal and the sink has failed. Replace plumber's putty seal and re-torque. Not usually a sign the unit itself is bad.
The dishwasher inlet tailpiece is the most common culprit on side leaks. Replace the gasket. If the unit itself is leaking from the body, the motor housing has cracked and the unit needs replacement.
The motor seal has failed. Unit needs replacement; the repair is not worth it.
| Service | Typical total |
|---|---|
| Free jam, reset and test | $95 to $135 |
| Mount flange seal replacement | $135 to $195 |
| Dishwasher inlet tailpiece | $115 to $165 |
| Full disposal replacement (1/2 HP) | $245 to $345 |
| Full disposal replacement (3/4 HP) | $295 to $395 |
| Full disposal replacement (1 HP) | $345 to $485 |
We install InSinkErator for most homes. The Pro series 3/4 HP and 1 HP units last fifteen years on average in our service book. Waste King is a fine second choice. Avoid contractor-grade 1/3 HP units; they jam constantly and burn out in three years.
If your dishwasher drains into the disposal and is also misbehaving, see our dishwasher repair page.
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